PATIENCE PAYS OFF
There are always many questions about how
to repair a wood floor whether it is job-site finished,
prefinished, satin or gloss finished, natural or custom stained. It
can involve several boards or just one piece of flooring. There's a
big difference between a repair and a patch job. A repair will blend
almost perfectly, not showing any blemishes. However, a patch job can
be spotted a mile away.
When repairing a hardwood floor, time and
patience with the proper tools, techniques and products will pay off in
the end. It's very easy to damage pieces next to the ones that are being
repaired, and if damage occurs, it makes for a long day.
For a 3/4" by 2 1/4" board, use
a circular saw set at the proper depth (3/4 inch), making two passes
approximately 1/2" inch from each side of the board (not cutting
past the end joints). The third cut goes on an angle between the first
two cuts, again not cutting through the side match. Once the cuts are
made, use a sharp chisel to remove the cut pieces. Clean and vacuum the
groove and area around the repair, making sure all debris is removed.
After these steps are complete, select a straight piece of flooring that
has a similar grain pattern as the one removed. Cut the piece of
flooring to the exact length to ensure a tight fit, not leaving cracks
at the end joints. (This repair can also be done with a router and
template.) Once the piece is cut to length, the bottom of the groove
will need to be removed. This can be done by scribing the back of the
board with a razor knife, then tapping the piece off with a hammer. Each
end of the board can be beveled with a miter saw or by using a block
plane to bevel the groove-side of the board. Always dry fit the piece
before installing. Now the piece is ready to install, using a two- part
epoxy. With a gun and nozzle, apply the glue in the groove and on the
tongue of the boards adjoining the repair. Also, apply glue to the
tongue and groove on the repair piece. The epoxy will set up very
quickly, so time is limited. The reason for using epoxy is that you can
sand the repair within 10 to 15 minutes after it is properly installed.
Other glues will take longer to set and will require drying overnight
before the repair can be sanded.
When repairing staple- or nail-down
prefinished or job-site finished floors, the repair can be done in the
same manner. However, repairing a finished floor takes more time before
and during the repair to avoid damage to the already finished floor.
Again, it is critical when selecting boards on a prefinished floor
repair to match grain, color, sheen and appearance for best results.
When repairing a floor that has been stained and finished, it takes a
great deal of experience, skill and patience to produce a successful
repair. Using an edger and fine-grit sandpaper (80-100 grit), sand the
repair flat. After the repair is sanded, use a sharp scraper IX inches
wide to scrape scratches out and feather back into existing stain or
finish. I call this "chasing the grain." Using the natural
pattern of the grain in the wood flooring, lightly scrape and blend the
area in which you are working. After all scraping is complete, clean and
hand sand with 80- or 100- grit paper. Do not sand out into the finished
area at this time. Then sand lightly around the repair with a finer grit
of sandpaper, mainly where the finish meets the bare wood. This will
smooth the finish so the stain doesn't bond to it and cause a darker
halo.
Repairing glue-down products takes a
different approach. The adhesive used to glue the flooring to the
subfloor (whether wood or concrete) slightly glues one piece to another,
therefore making the repair difficult. However, the basic technique
remains the same. After making two cuts lengthwise and a third
diagonally, the damaged flooring should be removed with a chisel.
Before Beginning the Repair
NOTE: ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND HEARING
PROTECTION.
A. Individual wood flooring boards can be
repaired/replaced in solid, engineered and parquet products without
affecting adjoining boards.
B. Always check the species to ensure a proper
match, (red oak, white oak, etc.).
C. Prefinished boards should be selected for gloss and color
match.
Related Pages:
~Installing
Procedures
~Technical
Questions - We got answers - FAQ's
~Trouble
Shooting Finishes-Understanding Problems that may occur
Technical
questions answered by former NWFA's Technical Director
Daniel Boone of Everwood
Floors
