CUPPING
- CROWNING
- BUCKLING
(see graphic)
"Washboard". Across the width of one piece of the flooring
material, the edges are high, the center is lower. Generally
develops gradually.
CAUSE:
Moisture imbalance through the thickness is the only cause.
The material was manufactured flat and was flat when
installed. Job site or occupant provided moisture is greater
on the bottom of the piece than on the top. Prove it with
your moisture meter. Find the source of moisture and
eliminate it. Common moisture sources and their corrections
are:
Airborne (Relative Humidity) - dehumidify air space or (lack
of during heating season humidify air space); wet basement -
ventilate, dehumidify; crawlspace groundcover/vents, add
exhaust fan on timer; lot topography - french drain to
remove; rain handling provisions - correct to drain away
from house; excessive lawn/garden moisture -
reduce/waterproof foundation; leaks plumbing, roof, doors -
fix; don't hose patio; maintenance; correct capillary
through slab - install barrier, french drain, drain tiles.
In kitchens, the dishwasher and ice maker are notorious
leakers.
Expansion is also the result of site moisture and may have
moved the floor tight to vertical surfaces. If so, remove
flooring along the wall, or saw cut, to relieve pressure.
CURE:
Allow time. Time for the corrections to take effect - to
permit the floor to improve on its own. It may become
acceptable . After stabilized, sand flat and finish. Cost of
corrections should be for owner or builder to cover.
"CROWNING", or the center of the piece of flooring
(across its width) is high, the edges are lower.
(see graphic)
CAUSE:
While moisture imbalance might be the cause (by excessive
moisture introduced on the finish side of the floor; i.e.
water used in maintenance, plumbing leaks overhead sprinkler
system), it is more likely that the floor was cupped
(problem #I) and sanded flat thus removing the outer edges,
the sanding having been done at the wrong time, i.e., before
corrections were made and before the floor flattened on its
own.
CURE:
After the floor has stabilized following corrections, sand
flat and finish. Note: Some slight cup and/or crown can and
should be tolerated. It is common in wood floors, especially
in wider planks. It is, in many cases, seasonal in its
occurrence and can be minimized with lighting and furniture
placement, by using beveled products and by other than high
gloss finish
"BUCKLING", "tented", "ballooning" floors. Pieces of
the flooring are no longer in contact with the substrate.
CAUSE:
Generally an extreme moisture problem. See Problem #1 for
sources and corrections. Inadequate expansion space, even
"net fit" (installer error) prevents normal expansion. On
nailed products, insufficient nailing, incorrect nails,
incorrect sub floor construction. On glue down product,
incorrect mastic, insufficient mastic, wrong trowel used,
inadequate mastic transfer, sub floor separation, sub floor
contamination.
CURE:
If caught early, spot repair/replacement may be possible. In
many cases, however, pull, correct, and relay/replace is
more practical.
|
NORMAL
CRACKS -SEPARATION BETWEEN INDIVIDUAL
FLOORING PIECES- ABNORMAL CRACKS - LOOSE, NOISY,
SQUEAKY FLOOR- UNEVENNESS
CAUSE:
Mother Nature. Dryness. As moisture caused some earlier
problems 1, the loss of moisture results in the most
frequent reason for shrinkage of individual pieces and
cracks. Should a floor have been exposed to problems 1, 2 &
3, then afterwards, "dried out", cracks will develop. If
subjected to extreme moisture, the edges of the wood (a
vegetable made up of cells), can crush, and subsequent
drying and shrinkage can present larger than normal cracks.
Square edge (un-beveled) floors show cracks more than
beveled. White, light, pastel finished show cracks more than
darker wood-tone finished floors. Most cracks are seasonal -
they show in dry months, or the cold season when heating is
required, and close during humid periods. This type of
separation and closing is considered rm 1. In solid 2 1/4"
wide strip oak floors, dry time cracks may be the width
of a dimes' thickness (1/32"). Wider boards will have
wider cracks (and the reverse is true). |
|
CURE:
Add moisture to the air space during dry periods. A constant
Relative Humidity (RH) of 50% works in concert with the
manufacture of wood floors to provide stability in the
floor. Live with normal cracks or add humidity - its 'the
owners' choice. Easy ways - boil a pan of water on the
stove, turn off bathroom exhaust fan, open dishwasher after
rinse cycle, a pan of water in furnace fan compartment, hang
laundry to dry in basement. Better yet, install humidifier
to furnace controlled by a humidistat set at 50% RH. In dry
and warm climates, add moisture (pan or humidifier) and run
furnace "fan only".
Abnormal
cracks - larger than normal, cluster or localized, end
separation, not uniform and not general throughout, do not
close up during humid months.
CAUSE:
Edge crush from prior exposure to extreme moisture,
especially solid, flat grain flooring (and may be general
throughout). If surface coated (such as polyurethane), edges
of some adjacent pieces may be literally "glued" together,
or panelized, and shrinkage cracks multiplied at the weakest
points. (See note that follows) "Hot Spots" in the
undersurface such as poorly insulated heating ducts, hot
water plumbing lines, radiant heating system (if so, should
be laminated products only), the new "Instant Hot Water"
feature, register openings, heat from refrigerator motor,
check nail spacing with stud finder. With adhesive applied
floors, early foot traffic, incorrect adhesive, amount
transferred or used (most noticed in traffic pattern). 3/4"
thick solid parquet with no return control (cork) in
expansion space, generally indicated by center of the field
is tight, with gaps around the walls. Note if there is a
pattern to the cracks, such as 4' X 4' or 4' X 8' indicating
sub floor change or weakness. Glued over sheet vinyl may
show 6' cracks from shrinkage or loose vinyl. Does the
pattern of cracks convey a relationship with foundation or
slab cracks and/or settlement. Check nail spacing on solid
products take wood moisture content reading and if it is
within normal range for your market and the wood is
undersize, drying was improper prior to manufacture. If wood
MC is normal and wood is "on size" or over, the wood was wet
prior to installation.
CURE:
In addition to obvious corrections suggested under it cause"
(i.e., add insulation between heat ducts and sub floor for
"hot spots", pull, add
adhesive, relay, adjust 3/4 parquet, add expansion joint
control, add cross bracing under weak sub floor), attempt to
elevate the relative humidity in the air space and after
sufficient time has passed to confirm that the problem has
stabilized, fill the cracks with the appropriate
color-matched fill. Re-coat if necessary. Last resort, pull
and replace - note however, that if corrections are not
made, chances are that replacement will develop the same
problem. Note: When a floor shows "panelizing" and a surface
coat has been used, you might choose to sand then finish
with seal and wax, or if surface finish is required, use a
sealer first rather than the stronger finish directly on the
new floor.
LOOSE, NOISY, SQUEAKY FLOOR, NOISY, SQUEAKY FLOOR
CAUSE:
Inadequate nailing, flexing weak sub floor system, nailed
over particle board type sub floor. Check sub floor
thickness and joist direction. Insufficient or incorrect
adhesive. Subjected to excess moisture, excessive drying.
CURE:
Add face nails, counter-sink&putty. Strengthen sub floor
from below. Inject adhesive or pull-add-relay. Lubricate
squeaks with graphite, wax, baby powder. Wedge sub floor up
from joists.
UNEVENNESS
CAUSE:
Wood joist system - sub floor warped and loose, joists
warped or fractured, support pillars settled, perimeter
foundation settlement.
Concrete slab
system - slab cracked and settled.
CURE:
Correct, strengthen substructure, repair sub floor, splice
joists, add joists. Structural, failure is not the wood
floor contractors domain usually. Owner needs a general
contractor for repairs prior to wood floor corrections.
Quality or
"Grade"- knots, heavy color variation,
out of-square, surface defects.
CAUSE:
Consumer expectations, incorrect sampling, incorrect
ordering, mistake by supplier, manufacturer, installer error
(should not have installed).
CURE:
Pull and replace offending pieces. Review samples with
owner.
Excessive and Early wear on finish - scratches, traffic
pattern. Finish Peeling - bubbles, blister - ROUGHNESS
CAUSE:
Improper maintenance, grit, water, strong soaps, dog
toenails, chair legs.
CURE:
Correct maintenance, especially vacuum, not just broom
sweep. Clip dog's nails, felt chair leg glides, appropriate
exterior walk-off mats to prevent grit, area rugs especially
in front of kitchen sinks. Re-coat if necessary - owner
pays.
Finish
Peeling - bubbles, blister
CAUSE:
Stain not dry. Excessive burnishing. Early coats not dry.
Skipped screening between coats. Product incompatibility.
Stain not sufficiently wiped leaving heavy pigment on
surface (is finish peeling from finish or wood?), improper
tack. Surface contaminated such as wax, oil soap
maintenance.
CURE:
If de-lamination from wood surface, sand and refinish. If
surface only, screen and re-coat.
Pet Stains
CAUSE- (We all know the cause !)
CURE: For the most part minor pet stains will lessen
or get lighter with sanding. Repeated stains (the darker the
deeper
is the rule) will not sand out.
Several consideration must be given. 1 - Will the floors be
refinished ? If so, a light or medium colored stain can be
use to help "cover or lessen" the stains. Sometimes a
"painted" design on the floor will cover the stains, or the
use of area carpets over those stained areas. 2 - Removal
and repair will give BEST results, if time, and budget
allowances are made.
Roughness
CAUSE:
Moisture from maintenance, spills, constant source,
condensation causing surface grain raise. Poor sanding,
edging, scraping. Contamination in finish during dry time.
CURE:
Correct moisture source. Lightly sand or screen. Re-coat.
Color
-
not right, changed
CAUSE:
Customer expectation, poor sampling, lighting over the floor
and room colorings. In correct maintenance including residue
of cleaners, waxes, etc. (i.e., Oil Soap). Wood itself
changes color with age ("Patina"). Extreme hot sunlight
through South/West facing windows. Color different under
rugs or low furniture from lack of exposure. Bleaching is
unpredictable - don't oversell expected results.
CURE:
Compare with sample. Explain lighting and colors. Remove
residue and correct maintenance procedures. Move rugs and
colors will even out in time. Shade large windows.
Dents
- Yes, wood dents.
CAUSE:
High heels. Dropped heavy objects, metal tips on furniture
legs. Unprotected rolling of heavy appliances such as
refrigerator or freezer.
CURE:
Remove high heels or maintain proper heel-tip protectors.
Provide large felt or rubber protectors under heavy
furniture legs. Roll heavy casters over plywood protection
only. For individual dents where wood fibers are not broken,
cover with a dampened cloth and press with an electric iron
to draw fibers up. Last resort sand and finish - owner pays.
Stains / discoloration
CAUSE:
Water from spills, water from continual source leading to
mildew (black) or decay (brown/white) or alkali (white) or
bleeding up of adhesive. Urine (dark) from pets, wet
diapers. Unprotected metal chair legs. Improper maintenance
with water or harsh chemicals. Traffic pattern wear.
Excessive harsh sunlight (wood looks starved near South or
West facing windows). Light deprivation under area rugs,
large low furniture. Be sure to observe if only one piece of
flooring is affected, or does the stain continue across
adjacent pieces. Oil soap residue.
CURE:
Correct water source, let dry. Minimize sunlight. Relocate
area rugs. Correct maintenance procedures and products. Dark
stains, lightly
abrade
surface with fine
sandpaper, feather out area, dampen cloth with 50/50
household bleach & water and lay on stain for 30 minutes,
remove, let dry, re-color if necessary. Waxed floors, clean
with renovator or paint thinner (combustible) and re-wax.
Whiteness/cloudy surface finish, clean and buff. If all
fails, screen and coat, sand and refinish, replace severe
boards.
STAIN REMOVAL GUIDE
SUBSTANCE FOR WAX FINISH FOR SURFACE FINISH
DRIED MILK OR FOOD
You may remove the superficial dried material with a sharpened
blade or a putty knife. Be careful not to scratch the finish.
Rub spot with damp cloth. Rub dry. Re-wax for waxed finish.
STANDING WATER
-
Rub spot with No. 1 steel wool and re-wax. If this fails, sand
lightly with fine (80 - 120 grit) sandpaper. Clean spot and
surrounding area using No. 1 or 0 steel wool and mineral spirits
or a wood floor cleaner. Let floor dry. Apply matching finish on
floor, feathering out into surrounding area. Wax after finish is
thoroughly dried. Use recommended cleaner and buff vigorously
with clean towel. Refinishing might be necessary.
DARK WATER SPOTS -
Clean spot and surrounding area with No. 2 steel wool and a wood
floor cleaner or mineral spirits. Thoroughly wash spotted area
with household vinegar. Allow it to remain for three to four
minutes. If spot remains, sand with fine sandpaper, follow the
grain pattern of the wood, feathering out 3 to 4 inches into
surrounding area, re-wax and polish. If two repeated
applications of vinegar do not remove the spot, apply oxalic
acid solution directly on the spot. Proportions are one ounce
oxalic acid to one quart water or fraction thereof.**Use
recommended cleaner and buff vigorously with clean towel.
Refinishing might be necessary.
HEEL MARKS / CASTER MARKS -
Rub
vigorously with fine steel wool and wax floor cleaner. Wipe dry
and polish. Use cleaner to wipe off mark. Some marks may be
carefully scraped up with a putty knife.
INK STAINS
Follow same procedure as for other dark spots.
URINE STAINS
Spots that are not too old may sometimes be removed in the same
manner as other dark spots. If spots resist cleaning efforts,
replace affected strips, sand and finish.
MOLD OR MILDEW -
A surface condition caused by damp, stagnant air. In all cases,
make sure the room is well-ventilated. Remove surface moisture.
The mold can usually be removed with a wood floor cleaning
liquid and No. 1 steel wool. A surface condition caused by damp,
stagnant air. In all cases, make sure the room is
well-ventilated. Remove surface moisture. If mold is on the
surface, wipe up with appropriate cleaner. If mold is under the
finish, refinishing is necessary.
CHEWING GUM / CRAYON/CANDLE WAX -
Scrape the major residue with putty knife or razor blade. Apply
ice until the deposit is brittle enough to crumble off. Cleaning
fluid poured around the area (not on it) can seep under the
deposit and loosen it. (Goof Off brand remover can dull the
finish.)
CIGARETTE BURNS
If not too deep,
steel wool will often remove them. Lightly moisten steel wool
with soap and water to increase effectiveness. Re-wax.
ALCOHOL SPOT - Rub
with liquid or paste wax, silver polish, boiled linseed oil or
cloth barely dampened in ammonia. Re-wax. Generally not
affected.
OIL OR GREASE
-
Rub on a kitchen soap having a high lye content or TSP (trisodium
phosphate), or saturate cotton with hydrogen peroxide and place
over the stain; then saturate a second layer of cotton with
ammonia and place over the first. Repeat until the stain is
removed. NOTE: Ammonia may discolor the wood. Wipe up using a
recommended floor cleaner. Buff with clean pad or towel.
PAINT
-
Should not bond to the finish. Pop off with a putty knife and
repair by rebuffing the wax. First try popping off the dried
material with a putty knife or sharp blade. If not easily
removed, apply a rag soaked with rubbing alcohol and let it
soften the latex for a few minutes then pop off with the putty
knife.
FINGERNAIL POLISH
- Should not bond to the finish. Pop off with a putty knife and
repair by rebuffing the wax. Fingernail polish is based on
lacquer and can etch the surface finish and bond quite hard. Any
solvent strong enough to remove the stain will attack the
finish. The finish will likely will have to be spot sanded and
touched up
NOTE:
**CAUTION
OXALIC ACID IS A POISON; USE RUBBER GLOVES. POUR A SMALL AMOUNT
DIRECTLY ON THE SPOT AND LET SOLUTIONS STAND ONE HOUR. SPONGE
SPOT WITH CLEAR WATER. A SECOND TREATMENT MAY BE HELPFUL IF SPOT
REFUSES TO YIELD. IF SECOND APPLICATION OF OXALIC ACID FAILS,
SAND AREA WITH NO.80-120 GRIT SANDPAPER, FOLLOW THE GRAIN, AND
APPLY MATCHING FINISH, FEATHERING OUT INTO SURROUNDING FLOOR
AREA. LET DRY. BUFF LIGHTLY WITH NO. 0 STEEL WOOL. APPLY SECOND
COAT OF FINISH, LET DRY AND WAX. IF SPOT IS STILL VISIBLE, THE
ONLY REMAINING REMEDY IS TO REPLACE THE AFFECTED FLOORING.
(NOTE: OXALIC ACID IS A BLEACHING AGENT. WHENEVER USED, THE
TREATED FLOOR AREA WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO BE STAINED AND
REFINISHED TO MATCH THE ORIGINAL COLOR.) FOR SURFACE FINISHES:
REMOVE FINISH AND TREAT AS ABOVE, BUT DO NOT WAX. AFTER AREA IS
THOROUGHLY DRY, COAT WITH SURFACE FINISH.
SCRATCHES
- Repair
with a touch-up kit for urethane finishes, available
from any wood flooring retailer. For small surface
abrasions (scratch is white) a small amount of "Endust"
of a soft cloth, wiping with scratch direction will
bring back to floor original color
INSECTS: TERMITES
- Identified by eating corridors beneath surface which
when weakened, the fragile surface sags. The bugs are
white or cream colored. Subterranean type build sand
tubes. Powder post Beetles identified by 1/ 16" diameter
perfect circle hole in surface of floor. Active
infestation will show clean bright wood in holes with
fine talcum powder like dust piles around the holes.
Inactive holes are darkened, even show stain or finish
on walls of the hole. When in doubt, collect sample
bugs, consult exterminator, entomologist, or extension
service, etc.
Structure must first be rid of active termites by
professional exterminator. Repair structural damage.
Pull and replace damaged floorboards, sand and refinish.
Heavy infestation of powder post beetle, handle as
above. When powder post is occasional, few boards
especially in new floors, treat individual openings
immediately with insecticide (from hardware or garden
shop) injected by syringe into holes, or aerosol insect
spray through a straw. Usually will not disturb finish.
Have owner watch for new evidence (dust piles) and treat
again. After 2-3 months holes may be filled. Termites
will not be associated with the flooring and costs will
be the responsibility of the owner. Powder post may be
in new flooring materials. Immediately on first report
notify your floor supplier. Prompt action by all will
minimize costs involved. Check all surroundings for
infected wood molding, furniture (especially bamboo and
antiques). If old infestation is in other materials the
owner must stand the costs involved in floor repairs.
Wood Damage by Termites:
Wood damaged by subterranean termites is often not
noticed because the exterior surface usually must be
removed to see the damage. However, galleries can be
detected by tapping the wood every few inches with the
handle of a screwdriver. Damaged wood sounds hollow, and
the screwdriver may even break through into the
galleries. Subterranean termite feeding follows the
grain of the wood and only the soft springwood is
attacked. Unlike dry wood termites or other wood
boring insects, subterranean
termites do not push wood particles or pellets (fecal
material) to the outside, but rather use it in the
construction of their tunnels. This debris, along with
sand and soil particles, is used as a form of plaster.
SUBTERRANEAN TERMITE PREVENTION AND CONTROL
The best control of subterranean termites is prevention.
The best time to provide protection against termites is
during the planning and construction of a building.
Prevention should include: 1-Removal of all stumps,
roots, wood, and similar materials from the building
site before construction is begun. 2 -Removal of all
form boards and grade stakes used in construction.
3-There should be no contact between the building
woodwork and the soil or fill. Exterior woodwork should
be located a minimum of 6 inches above ground and beams
in crawl spaces at least 18 inches above ground to
provide ample space to make future inspections. 4-
Ventilation openings in foundations should be designed
to prevent dead air pockets and of sufficient size to
assure frequent changes of air - at least 2 sq. ft. to
25 running feet of outside foundation wall. This helps
keep the ground dry and unfavorable for termites. 5-
Thorough annual inspections should be conducted to
discover evidence of termite activity such as shelter
tubes on foundation surfaces, discarded wings or adult
termites. 6- Any wood that contacts the soil, such as
fence posts, poles and general foundation structures,
should be commercially pressure treated.
POST-CONSTRUCTION TREATMENT OF STRUCTURES
Crawl Space Treatment Dig narrow trenches along both the
inside and outside of foundation walls and around piers
and chimney bases, and apply diluted spray as described
above. Also be sure to trench and treat around sewer
pipes, conduits and all other structural members in
contact with the soil. Apply the insecticide to the
trenches. The insecticide must be applied to both the
inside and outside of the foundation and also around
piers, chimney bases, pipes, conduits and any other
structures in contact with the soil. The trench should
be as deep as the top of the footing. Mix the
insecticide with water as recommended on the pesticide
label. Apply the diluted spray at the rate of 2 gal. per
5 linear feet of trench. Mix the insecticide with the
soil as it is being replaced.
Concrete
Slab Construction
It is possible to trench around the outside of a slab
after it has been poured, as described above, but this
alone usually will not give satisfactory control because
the termite colony may be entering the structure from
the soil under the slab. Homeowners are not equipped to
treat under slabs after the slab foundation is
completed. A professional pest control operator usually
is needed to do sub-slab
chemical injections. Most subterranean termites feed
along the grain of the wood, eating the spring wood and
leaving the summer wood. The Formosan termite feeds on
both and forms a hollow. In Hawaii, where unprotected
homes were built over large colonies, records show that
the Formosan subterranean termite caused major
structural damage in 6 months and almost complete
destruction in 2 years (Tamashiro 1984). Moisture
Requirements The Formosan termite, like all subterranean
termites, uses the soil for a source of moisture.
However, Formosan termite colonies can obtain moisture
from plumbing or roofing leaks.
INSPECTION OF CONCRETE SLAB CONSTRUCTION
Inspect for evidence of termite activity near any
plumbing that goes through the slab. Look for tubes
around baseboards. Tap baseboards around walls. Check
for wood which is in contact with the soil.
THE VACANT HOUSE - "Greenhouse Effect"
CAUSE:
Security -conscious vacationers, a homebuilder's unsold
inventory, whenever a wood floor is deprived of an air
flow in the environment, it can and will misbehave.
Sunlight through windows generates heat, lowers
humidity, moisture vapor enters to balance, nights cool
off, humidity builds and wood floors cup. Thermostats
set at 60 degrees and outside, winter howls, heating
system runs constantly with no moisture added, and
floors shrink.
CURE:
Avoid problems by leaving windows "ajar", have neighbor
air the house out occasionally. Treat floors as
discussed under cupped, tented, or shrinkage cracks and
only after environment returns to normal. Owner to pay.
The above commonly ask questions will help you and your
wood floor contractor resolve some of the everyday
concerns about wood floors. By no means is this a sure
method or procedure. If in doubt, get a second opinion.
Buying a HOME with Wood Floors, What to look for?
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