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Mixing Wood Floor Finishes-Applying one
over another
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also see Trouble shooting wood flooring finishes
Q. Can
a water-based wood floor finish be applied over an oil-modified wood flooring finish and vice-versa?
A. Yes, a water-based finish can be applied over an
oil-modified finish. Likewise, an oil-modified finish can be applied
over a water- based finish. (Because both are urethane, they should be
compatible.) The steps and concerns are about the same. First, the original
product must be fully cured before you can successfully apply any water-based
finish or oil-modified finish. If you are applying water-based finish
over a recent oil-based sand and finish job, you need to make sure that the
oil-based finish has had enough time to cure. Thirty days is typically
enough time, but in very humid climates, 45 days may be necessary. If
applying oil-based over water-based, 14 days of cure time is necessary. If the
original finish isn't fully cured, solvents will evaporate into the new finish
and impede drying. Several problems can result: Alligatoring
(wrinkling of the finish), bad adhesion, peeling, flaking off, splotchy areas
and fish eye all can occur. Once you are sure that the original finish
is fully cured, make sure you use manufacturers' recommended procedures for
preparing the floor and applying the new finish. Always use recommended
cleaning products. Because of possible contaminants on the floor
resulting from things such as non-recommended cleaning products and
maintenance procedures, most manufacturers do not guarantee a screen and
recoat - whether you are using oil or water-based finishes. On a related note, many contractors also ask if a water-based finish can be
applied over a solvent-based stain. The answer is yes. In fact,
the majority of stains used today are solvent-based stains, and often
waterborne finish is placed over them. The key areas to pay attention to
when applying a water-based finish over a solvent-based stain are:
- relative humidity
- sanding procedures
- application methods and tools
- temperature
- air flow
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Always follow
manufacturers' recommendations before applying their finish. For best
results when applying a water-based finish over a solvent-based stain, the
room temperature must be between 65 and 75 degrees with a relative humidity of
between 30 and 50 percent. If the temperature and humidity are not
within this range, the finish may have difficulty drying. Dry time is
critical. The majority of finish problems are a result of the stain not
being fully dry before application of the finish. Remember also that dry time
varies with each manufacturer, so it is important to follow manufacturers'
instructions. Low humidity and increased airflow will speed up dry time;
conversely, higher humidity and decreased airflow will slow down dry time. In
the final sanding, the grit used may also affect dry time. The finer the grit,
i.e. 120 and 150, the more drying time may be slowed down. This is due
to the burnishing effect on the wood. However, if all excess stain is removed,
this increased dry time should be minimal. A darker stain or a white stain may
take longer to dry. Medium- colored stains dry in less time. It takes
from four to 72 hours for stains to dry. (Again, check with manufacturers'
recommendations.) There is not a scientific way to determine if the stain is
dry, but most contractors use a dry, clean, white cloth to rub the stain,
detecting any stain transfer onto the cloth. Also, some manufacturers
recommend buffing with a white pad before applying finish. When you
start buffing, check the pad bottom frequently for transfer - if it is
stained, your floor isn't dry yet. Follow manufacturers' instructions as to
coverage rate and uniformity of flow. Application tools normally used
are a T-bar with a synthetic applicator, synthetic roller, pad-type synthetic
or lambswool applicator, and hand brushes made specifically for water-based
products. These hand brushes can be made of nylon or of a similar
synthetic material. The manufacturer instructions must be followed as to the
number of coats for residential and commercial applications. Generally, three
to four coats are sufficient for a typical residential application, while
commercial applications may require four to five coats, including a sealer.
Technical questions
answered by NWFA's technical director(1994-2000)
Daniel Boone
See Related Pages:
~Types of Wood
Floor Finishes
~Finishing Wood Floors
~Refinishing
Old Wood Floors
~Trouble
Shooting Finishes
~Purchasing
~Wood Floor Finishes
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